The Oregon Coast is one of my two most favorite places in the US (the other one being NYC). I am trying to go there once in every few years to enjoy the unparalleled scenery, soak in the salty ocean air, listen to the relentless hum of the surf, walk along the endless sand beaches… I love the coastal resort towns with their kitsch giftshops and old-fashioned video arcades, a very down-to-earth feeling and the general easy-going and laid-back vibe. But if you are inclined to finer things in life, the types that you can find in Saint Tropez or Portofino, then probably the Oregon Coast is not for you. Sure, you will come across some hoity-toity artsy stuff, like artisanal shops selling $15 soap bars, or one or two gourmet restaurants, but it will still be on a much smaller scale. Another thing to remember is that the ocean is not swimmable. The water is very cold even in the height of summer. For me personally, though, it’s a big selling point – the beaches are not very crowded at any time of the year, and especially off-season, when I tend to visit. But you might see it differently. So, in short, the Oregon Coast is not your traditional seaside vacation destination, it’s an acquired taste .
Probably, the most beautiful thing about the Oregon Coast is that all its beaches are accessible to the public. You cross the border into California and the first thing you see is the barbwire along the road, fencing off the cows grazing in the dunes (that’s what it seems they mostly use the coastline for, down in California). In Oregon, you see a beach – it’s all yours. That didn’t just happen, obviously. It’s America, after all. The credit belongs to the then Oregon Governor Oswald West, who was determined to establish the public ownership of the whole coastline, even though most of it was already in private hands. So, in 1913, under the guise of the need for transportation corridor along the coast, he convinced the State Legislature to declare the entire length of the ocean shore a state highway. Then they established 36 state parks along the coast, meaning, there is a state park for every 10 miles. Half a century later, a motel owner fenced off a piece of the beach for the private use for his guests, which prompted the State Legislature to pass in 1967 the Oregon Beach Bill, which clearly states that the public has “free and uninterrupted use of the beaches” up to the line of vegetation, regardless of the actual ownership of the land. No highway disguises this time.
Speaking of highways. The best way to explore the Oregon Coast is by driving along Highway 101, which starts in Washington, just below Seattle, and goes all the way to Los Angeles, closely hugging the coastline. It cuts through most of the coastal towns and has numerous viewpoints set up right by the road, for you to enjoy the breathtaking scenery. In this section, we will be following Hwy 101 from Oregon’s northern border with Washington and down to California in the south.